Ornamental grasses - this is an excellent time to collect seeds of these grasses. They have soared in popularity in recent years but so has the price of them – you could save yourself a lot of money and it’s easy to do:

1 .Choose a dry day to cut off mature seedheads with a short length of stem.

2. Make a note of the name of the grass on an envelope.

3. Gently pull the seedheads apart, clear away any chaff and seal the cleaned seeds in the envelope.

4. Keep the envelope in a cool, dry place until next spring when you should sow them thinly into modules of peat-free comp

According to Forestry England, we're in for a bobby-dazzler of an autumn. The warm, sunny summer means that trees have packed more sugar into their leaves, which will produce cleaner, brighter colours when temperatures start to drop.

But when those leaves fall, what are we to do with them all? On paths, they can be devilishly slippery, and on beds they'll quickly smother low-growing plants. Fortunately, there are many uses for fallen leaves, even in the tiniest garden. Even better news is that they're best left as close to where they fell as possible to benefit wildlife and improve soil health. So, this autumn, rather than spend hours chasing leaves across the lawn and bagging them up for the green waste collection, why not try your hand at making leaf mould, mowing yourself some mulch, or even making an autumn wreath?

Top  Tips for Taking Cuttings

1. Always use a sharp, clean knife, or snips
2. Select healthy shoots that have not yet bloomed.
3. Cut just below a leaf node - that's where the leaves join the stem.
4. Store cuttings in a plastic bag or beaker of water if you're not ready to prepare them immediately. 
5. Remove 50-70% of leaves to stop the cutting from losing moisture.
6. Dip the cut ends in rooting powder if you have it. Don't worry if you don't - most cuttings will root without it.
7. Gently push your cuttings into an open mixture of compost and sand or grit. Good drainage is vital to stop them rotting off.
8. Pop them around the edge and in the corners of a pot, as contact with the sides will encourage rooting.
9. Place your cuttings in a warm, sheltered, and bright location, but avoid direct sunlight.
10. Be patient and wait for signs of new growth before transplanting your new plants into individual pots. White roots poking from the bottom of the pot are another sure sign you've succeeded!

Storing Chillies

After months of nurturing your chilli plants, watering, feeding, and proudly showing off those first bright pods, harvest time finally arrives. The plants are loaded, the colours are stunning, and you’ve got more chillies than you could possibly eat fresh. It’s a wonderful problem to have… until you realise that even the most enthusiastic spice-lover can’t get through a kilo of fresh chillies in a week.

That’s where drying comes in. Drying chillies is the simplest, most satisfying way to preserve your harvest and make sure none of that glorious homegrown heat goes to waste. Whether you grow mild jalapeños or eye-watering habaneros, drying intensifies the flavour and locks in their fiery punch for use all year round.

Prepping for Drying

Give your chillies a quick rinse and pat them completely dry. This step’s crucial, moisture is the enemy of preservation. If you’re drying thick-skinned chillies, slice them in half lengthways and remove the seeds if you prefer a milder result (though let’s be honest, that’s half the fun gone!).

Methods for Drying Chillies

There are a few ways to dry your homegrown beauties, and which you choose depends on your patience level and available tools.

Air Drying

If you like to keep things simple, this method is as low-tech as it gets. Thread your chillies onto a needle and strong cotton or fishing line, leaving space between each one for air circulation. Hang the string somewhere warm, dry, and well-ventilated, like a sunny window or an airing cupboard.
This can take anywhere from one to three weeks depending on humidity, but it’s deeply satisfying watching your chillies slowly transform into wrinkled, ruby-red jewels.

Oven Drying

If you live somewhere damp (hello, British autumn), the oven method is your best bet. Lay your chillies on a baking tray lined with parchment paper and pop them in the oven on the lowest setting, around 80°C, with the door slightly ajar to let the moisture escape.
Check them every 30 minutes and turn occasionally. Depending on size, they’ll take 4 – 8 hours. They’re done when they’re brittle and snap cleanly.

Dehydrator

If you have a food dehydrator, it’s the perfect tool for the job. Spread your chillies in a single layer and set to around 60–65°C. Leave them for 6–10 hours, or until completely dry. It’s fuss-free and reliable, ideal if you grow a lot of chillies each year.

Storing Your Dried Chillies

Once dry, allow them to cool fully before storing. Keep them whole in airtight jars or tins, somewhere cool and dark. Stored properly, they’ll keep their kick for up to a year (though I promise they won’t last that long once you start using them).

You can crumble them into flakes, blitz into powder, or soak in warm water to rehydrate for cooking. Dried chillies are perfect for soups, stews, marinades, and homemade chilli oil.

Drying your chillies is one of those deeply satisfying garden rituals, simple, thrifty, and a little bit magical. You start with vibrant fruits plucked fresh from the plant and end with jars of ruby-red spice that’ll brighten up your winter cooking.

It’s the perfect way to celebrate your harvest, waste nothing, and bring a little summer heat into the colder months.